My inner (Thanksgiving) vegetarian
By Rachel Forrest
One of my friends was finally going to meet her son’s girlfriend at Thanksgiving a few years ago. She called me up all excited about meeting her and gushed on about how she was going to welcome the girlfriend into the family with the whole traditional Thanksgiving dinner — her grandmother’s sausage and apple stuffing and the giblet gravy, the Brussels sprouts with bacon and of course the 25-pound turkey. Two days later she calls again, totally panicked.
“Oh by the way, Mom,” said delightful son. “Sarah’s a vegetarian.” What to do, what to do?
No problem! There are plenty of ways to honor the vegetarians at the Thanksgiving table and, while doing so, to honor your own inner vegetarian. First off, there’s the interesting Tofurky way to go. The stuffed roll is made from tofu, wheat and wheat gluten and has the spices in it to make it taste like turkey and simulate turkey in style. I’ve tasted it and it’s really pretty good.
While I’m not a big fan of making foods seem like meat — I do understand the nostalgia factor in bringing back some of the Thanksgiving feel for everyone by having something turkey like for the vegetarian. But I prefer to offer a very interesting vegetarian main dish instead with a meat-free gravy as well. That and a huge variety of side dishes, which you’re making anyway, is just fine.
You can make all of your appetizers and pre-dinner snacking fare vegetarian too in ways that everyone will like. Hummus, guacamole, bruschetta — you really needn’t change a thing. Make sure you prepare a vegetarian stuffing baked in a separate dish in the oven — if the stuffing is cooked in the bird, it’s not vegetarian. And find out if your guest eats dairy or eggs as well. If you put cream in your mashed potatoes and you have a vegan coming for dinner, make some mashed with vegetable stock or pureed parsnips instead or in addition to your usual.
Some other tips are to call a vegetarian-friendly restaurant like the Green Earth Café in Exeter, Madeline’s Totally Organic Kitchen in Portsmouth or Susty’s in Northwood and order up an entrée you can pick up. Arrange for some or all of the guests to contribute a dish. And sure, you can go faux with Tofurky (www.tofurky.com) or the Celebration Roast from Field Roast (www.fieldroast.com, a wheat flour faux turkey with a butternut squash and apple stuffing.
An easy vegetarian gravy can be made by boiling some in season root veggies like carrots, parsnips and turnips with herbs and onions until soft, straining out the vegetables, reducing and thickening with a roux just like you would a gravy made from pan drippings. And stuffing could simply be your bread with mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes for even more flavor. Moisten the stuffing with a nice apple cider or white wine. There’s plenty of late harvest produce for the sides so go nuts.
Some great main dish ideas are lasagna with winter squash or a hearty risotto with mushrooms and squash. A veggie shepherd’s pie is a great option as well, made with mushrooms and even a red cabbage. This is one my friend made on that fateful Thanksgiving Day when her son brought the new girlfriend and announced their engagement. Surprise! Bring Mom a big bottle of wine! And what are you serving at the wedding mom-in-law?
Vegetarian Shepherd’s Pie
Pre-heat oven to 425° F. Caramelize one large chopped Vidalia onion with 2 tablespoons butter. Add 3 cloves of chopped garlic and sauté for about a minute. Add 3 tablespoons butter and 2 large sliced portabello mushrooms and cook for 3 minutes. Add 1 cup of red wine and 2 cups water or vegetable stock. Stir in ¼ cup tomato paste. Simmer for 15 minutes, then stir in 1 teaspoon chopped basil and 1 tablespoon Balsamic vinegar. Remove from heat.
Make mashed potatoes in whatever way you like (check about that dairy factor) using about 3 cups of diced potato. Press the mashed potatoes into the bottom and up the sides of an 8 by 12 baking dish. Spoon the mushroom mixture into the dish. Cover with the rest of the mashed potatoes. Bake for 15 minutes or until the tops are browning. If your guest isn’t vegan, you can top with cheese as well. Serves six.
The Dish
There are still farmers markets for the Holidays! On Nov. 17 and Dec. 22, from 9 a.m. until 2 p.m., McIntosh Atlantic Culinary Academy (MACA) will sponsor and host the Holiday farmers markets with more than 20 vendors from around the Seacoast attending to sell their goods. Vendors will arrive at MACA, 181 Silver St., in Dover, and set up their locally grown produce. The market provides an arena for residents to support local farmers and food producers. It’s all the great stuff you got every week from the farmers markets in May to October, but in November and December! Get heirloom variety pumpkins and maple syrup, cookies, lamb, produce and even greens. Participating farms and local food businesses include the Back River Farm, McClary Hill Farm, Andy’s Greens, Meadow’s Mirth, New Roots Farm and White Heron Tea among many more. Support local farmers at 181 Silver St. in Dover. For information, call 750-1500 or visit www.seacoasteatlocal.org.
Rachel Forrest is a former restaurant owner who lives in Portsmouth. Her column appears Wednesdays in Go&Do. Her restaurant review column, Dining Out, appears Thursdays in Spotlight magazine. Hear her on Wine Me Dine Me with co-host Susan Tuveson at 6 p.m., Fridays on WSCA-FM 106.1. She can be reached by e-mail at rforrest@seacoastonline.com.
http://www.seacoastonline.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20071114/OPINION/711140304/-1/OPINION05



